Feliz Aniversario: One Year in Country

We arrived in Mozambique September 26^th, 2012.  While I would agree with many that our first 3 months (of Pre-Service Training) in country pale in comparison to the 24 months of service at our own, individual sites, I nonetheless consider those first three months as formative of our views of Mozambique.  My current site of Cuamba in the province of Niassa is very different from our training site of Namaacha, and it’s certainly poles, maybe even worlds apart from the capital of Maputo.  But these differences add to our varied perspective of Moz.  I’m still just learning about this enormous country.  Hell, I’m still just learning about my site of Cuamba.  Honestly, I’m still trying to work through my impressions and experiences here.  Some of you have already heard me call it “Cuckoo Cuamba,” but that may only a knee-jerk reaction, I think.  I’ll need to spend a bit more time to render a fairer, more accurate, representation of this city.

For now, let me re-cap this action-packed month of September 2013.  It started out laid-back enough, during a fabulous (as always) Sunday brunch at Colin’s, when I got a call from RPCV Anwar Archer informing me that he’s already arrived in Cuamba. . . all the way from Namibia!  Anwar is a fellow Cape Verde Transfer who got moved to Namibia as a Small-Enterprise Development volunteer.  He COSed the end of August and travelled coast to coast from Namibia to Mozambique.  It took him about 9 days of over-land travel, including stops at Victoria Falls and Lake Malawi, to get to my site.  What an honor to be a part of the last leg of his trip to reach the Indian Ocean! 

In Nampula on our way to meet JICA volunteer Takuyu, I almost got robbed on the busy Kankhomba street near the city’s major traffic circle.  I got sandwiched between two guys, one of whom shook my arm, to get my hand out of my pocket, I guess.  I quickly (and luckily) side-stepped out of the trap. 

On my way to the airport, the taxi I was in rear-ended a motorbike.  It got pushed and plopped onto the center divider of the road.  Before the “mota” landed on its side, the driver and his passenger behind him were able to hop off the bike.  They both seemed to be okay, though the biker kept on hopping, with a grimace on his face, holding his crotch.  His passenger, on the other hand, hopped into my taxi, and for a moment I thought we would need to go to the hospital.  They spoke in the local language of Macua, and I understood nothing of their minor squabble.  But when we went straight to the airport I realized that the accidental passenger I think was just getting a free ride from the taxi driver.

Overall, though, I enjoyed the short stay in Nampula.  I finally met up with the famous (perhaps too famous amongst PCVs) JICA volunteer Takuyu.  We celebrated one of his colleague’s birthday and enjoyed some Japanese cuisine.  I also got to see other PCVs at the Peace Corps office, gathering and preparing for their REDES (Raparigas Em Desenvolvimento e Saúde) conference.  It’s so very rare, here in Cuamba, for us to see PCVs from other provinces, that seeing them in Nampula was special, to say the least. 

As I mention in last month’s blog post, I would be travelling to Manica’s provincial capital of Chimoio for my own COS (Close of Service) conference.  A direct route to that city from Cuamba would have been a little over 1,000 kilometers, but my round-about trip (or “creative route” according to PCV Helen in Tete), more than tripled the distance.  The plane from Nampula took a 30 minute layover in Tete City Airport, before heading to Beira, the provincial and coastal capital of Sofala.  There I stayed overnight at Hotel Indico, in a somewhat sketchy area near Miramar Hotel.  The following day I was very tempted to crash the house-party in full swing around the corner, but I really just wanted to get to my destination, and I wasn’t sure what the chapa ride would be like, so, after taking a short walk on the beach and an errand to the bank, I checked out of the hotel, took a chapa to “Baixa,” the main hub/chapa station.  There I boarded a full chapa (luckily got a seat way in the back).

  The 3 to 4 hour ride to Chimoio was relatively easy and without much incident—a wonderful thing, since we sped through Sofala, which is considered RENAMO country.  The road to Chimoio also showcased big-rigs that have flipped over on the side of the road.  We have no paved roads here in Cuamba (actually, they just finished paving one road through the center of town where all the government buildings are located), but it seems clear that the tragic disadvantage of paved roads is the higher rate of car accidents.  Thank goddess I arrived in Chimoio safely. 

So I got to Chimoio, another city that’s worlds apart from Cuamba.  I met up with the other CV transfers at Castelo Branco hotel.  Our sessions, unlike some in PST or Reconnect, weren’t as demanding.  We do have a bunch of paperwork to submit. . . For instance, our Volunteer Report Form (VRF) is due this coming weekend.  And I’ve yet to write the letter to my replacement here in Cuamba. I have to revise my “Description of Service” (DOS), etc. etc.  Aside from all the forms that we’re reminded to complete, I have to get ready to move to Chimoio, probably mid-November.  I also discovered, during the trip, that I would be participating in week 8 of Moz 21’s Pre-Service Training.  Hence, the early departure from Cuamba.  So, busy, busy, busy.

But those three days of our conference were, believe it or not, relaxing.  Maybe it was because we were well-fed, but I think we all are ready for the next chapter, whether it be graduate school, or a job-search, or another year in Moz.  As I said during our closing session, I probably would not have decided to come to Mozambique without my Cape Verdean counterparts.  It’s been tough here in the north without you all; no one seems to really understand.  I appreciate the moments we spent together in Cape Verde and here in Moz, but I’m also grateful to you all because I might not have transferred, might not have met even more wonderful people, without you.  I’m a bit sad that we’re all splitting up (again!), but I’m glad and happy that I got to know you. 

During our fun conference, I neglected to write “warm fuzzies” to six of you.  Sorry.  You all know I’m neither warm, nor fuzzy.  But let me try to be, just a little:

Marina— you’re an intelligent, strong, and caring woman.  You excelled as a PCV, and I’m sure you’ll excel in other future endeavors.  I very much enjoyed our hike in Sanicolau and our little ride around Beira to the airport.  Wish I can visit you in Cabo Delgado!  Alas, our time in country is short, and the distances to travel long.  Hope to see you again, if not in CV, then perhaps stateside.

Brendão—I’ll never forget the time in Somada when you whooped our asses in poker, with a shitty 10-3 hand.  Dude, I had a pocket pair of aces!  And remember that music festa in Tarrafal?  You and Lynette’s “sinister shade of green” concoction at Tobey’s?  And then that one night drinking bomb brandy at “Baia Verde” restaurant-bar, overlooking Tarrafal beach—was that before or after our epic hike around Tfal?  Good times, man.  You were cool and stylish through it all.  It was awesome to have been in the Santiago crew with you.

Mims— one of the PCV goddesses of Sanicolau, you rock in art and philosophy.  I enjoyed hanging out with you and your students’ family in Canto Faja.  I’ll miss your cool logic and heartfelt understanding.

Joãzinho— suave João, in case you didn’t know, all us boys looked up to you.  Always gracious and thoughtful with an edge, you’ll rock in Portugal and wherever else you go. 

Craigles—that was cruel of you to tease us with Blue Moon during our Skype call.  I think you owe us all beers when we get back.  I’ll miss your good humor and super chill attitude. 

Kimi— I miss your visits in Praia, and my visits to your São Domingos, and your Funana dance lessons, and having ice cream at Arctica, and getting groceries at Calu, and hanging out at Café Sofia. . . Ugh, things are so different here in Moz without you.  A reunião em Cabo Verde is a must, I think.

To all other PCVs and friends I met these last two years, it has been one hell of a trip and a great pleasure.  Seeing you all again would be grand.  It was quite grand seeing almost all Moz19ers of Niassa this last weekend for English Theater--a success, by the way.  I was very happy and proud of my students´performance.   Even though we were busy helping facilitate the event, it was wonderful to see so many familiar faces (Jamie B., Grisha, Eric K., Jade, Ella, Matt J., Alice B., Victor, Hannah), to catch up with what’s been happening even just for a short while.  Peace Corps life is strange in that peak experiences can be so high, but perhaps only because they’re surrounded by lull moments.  At least that seems to be the case here in Cuamba.

But the month isn’t over yet.  Today is Cuamba Day (a district holiday for the city) and there’s to be a concert in town later this afternoon.  Now, because I live 6 kilometers away from town, every time I go there is Cuamba Day for me.  So, I’ll have to see what “real” Cuamba Day is like for the folks that live there.