segunda-feira, 31 de março de 2014

March Post

The month went by super fast, with work--teaching at Universidade Catolica de Mozambique--along with weekend events and outings.  My preference is to write about what's been going on, but since so much has been happening, and I've posted no pics at all over the last 3 months, I think this blogpost will just be a showcase of photos from January to March 2014.  We all know the cliché, a picture says a thousand words.  We are bombarded by images and by "the image" (of cool, of class, of power and prestige, youth and entertainment).  We would do well to remember, however, that a word can evoke not only an infinite number of images, but also hidden inner meanings and inner worlds.  Of course, words require a bit more work and commitment.

So, here are some pics:
PCV Victor, from Momba, Niassa.  The first northerner to visit me in Chimoio.

My living room when I first moved in.

My kitten. . . later given away by my landlady.

Kitten up a mango tree.

Kids that wanted their photo taken at Mavudzi Ponte, Tete.


Mavudzi Ponte River and Bridge

Colleagues Esta and PCV Ana D. at Flor de Vouga in Chimoio



Chic Dutch Duo Maarten and Lieke. 

Looking for live music, Praça da Independencia, Chimoio

At a churasqueira, Chimoio

Camp Ndzou Adventure (between Dombe and Sussundenga, Manica province).  Our Cozy Cottage and the Amazing Rav4

Camp Ndzou: Elephant Footprints

Camp Ndzou: Through the Jungle

On our way back to Chimoio after Camp Ndzou

Birthdayboy with PCV Wendy at a restaurant in Manica City

Gate at Geological Museum, City of Manica

Geological Museum, City of Manica

Lunch at Policentro Restaurant, City of Manica

On our way to church perched atop a hill, City of Manica

Old Church, City of Manica

Kids playing soccer by the old church, view of surrounding mountains, Manica City

U.S. Ambassador to Mozambique, Douglas Griffiths, American Corner Opening Ceremony at Universidade Catolica de Mozambique, 25 March 2014.

PCV Brian performing with English Club members for the American Corner Opening Ceremony

Chess for breakfast, before Cabeça do Velho hike (30 March 2014)

UCM student Rudolfo, Cabeça do Velho background

Near the top of Cabeça do Velho

View of the city of Chimoi from Cabeça do Velho, PCVs Steven and Wendy: "Life is Calling, How Far Will You Go?" 

Atop Cabeça do Velho

TV reporters from Maputo doing a piece on Cabeça do Velho; Women kneeling, praying at the peak of the mountain

PCV Brian sharing his scrumptuous quiche, our picnic atop Cabeça do Velho

Baboon sighting atop Cabeça do Velho

We started with chess, we ended with chess.





sexta-feira, 28 de fevereiro de 2014

Happy V-Day II


Ok, so it’s no longer V-day, but that’s only if you’re reading the title with a singular meaning.  The beauty of “V-day” is that it’s open to multiple interpretations.  A friend of mine deciphered it as“Vampire Day,” “Vinho Day” and “Venom Day.”  Though her readings got a bit dark, I really do enjoy the openness, the playful plurality of meanings.
       Nevertheless, “Happy V-Day” (Part I), my blogpost of last year on February 14th, was perhaps way too open.  It simply did not provide any closure or conclusion.  Really, I don’t want to give this topic much import, much space and air to breathe.  No one wants to kick a dead horse.  Also, this is a different year.  Even though everything is cyclical, year after year, through the seasons, and the waxing and the waning of the moons, February 2013 and February 2014 are not identical.  There are so many other things to talk about, like life in Chimoio, our Camp Ndzou adventure, the first week of school at UCM, and other miscellaneous yet funny and fascinating events. 
But for this post I just want to write an ending to “Happy V-day (2013).”  Now, we all know that sequels suck.  Blogs are generally simple, light, and easy, so I hope no one has high expectations here.  What I want and what you, the reader, want can be two very different things.  Desire is nothing, if not duplicitous.  A female PCV once complained to me that there are very few PCV guys in the Central Region of Mozambique.  Well, I thought, how many guys do you want?! 
Yet it’s not any easier to talk about necessity, instead of want.  If we’re talking about need, then we, each one of us, really need just one. . . the right one.  The only one.  How many of us have that?
It is a common complaint among PCVs, though.  The complaint is so ubiquitous, in fact, that our packing list indicated a “Personal Intimate Massager” as a “recommended” item to be brought to Mozambique.  I don’t know what that means for guys, but perhaps it should be listed under “Necessary items.”
But I don’t want to talk about necessity here, now.  Last year I needed to write a sort of fantasy story.  Here, now, I don’t need to write Part 2, but it is my desire to do so, mainly because Part 1 was such a cop out.  It shies away from an ending.  So now I want to finish it, to be done with it once and for all.  Of course desire for, let’s say, climax, for jouissance and that sweet dénouement-afterglow can be boundless.  I’m fairly low-maintenance, but I don’t know about you, the reader.  Então, let me just say, beware.  Curb your expectations.  Remember that most, if not all, sequels do not live up to the sparkly flourish of their beginnings. 
So.  After such a fluff-filled intro, how to conclude last year’s “Happy V-day” (Part 1) blogpost?  What end shall befall our anonymous protagonist, the budding botanist/wanna-be writer?  
Hmmm.  .  .  .  . 
Margaret Atwood, one of my absolute favorite authors, wrote a short, short story entitled “Happy Endings,” which sketches five re-visions or “endings” of plotlines for a “John” and a “Mary.”  Her meta-narrative of multiple endings, I think, suits the quirky style of my “Happy V-Day” Part 1, though perhaps hers is a bit too complex, and the voice too grave for the simple, light, and easy tone of a blogpost.  Atwood’s depicts a darkness that doesn’t jive with “Happy V-day.”  You can check out her story online; again, it’s very short.  But let me quote its ending, the real, final ending, of “Happy Endings” here: 

“You’ll have to face it, the endings are the same however you slice it.  Don’t be deluded by any other endings, they’re all fake, either deliberately fake, with malicious intent to deceive, or just motivated by excessive optimism if not by downright sentimentality. 
“The only authentic ending is the one provided here:  John and Mary die.  John and Mary die.  John and Mary die.
“So much for endings.  Beginnings are always more fun.  True connoisseurs, however, are known to favor the stretch in between, since it’s the hardest to do anything with. 
“That’s about all that can be said for plots, which anyway are just one thing after another, a what and a what and a what.
“Now try How and Why.”

Despite the strong, imperative voice, Atwood’s heavy emphasis on death as an absolute ending seems gratuitous.  Don’t get me wrong, I love this story and I love Atwood’s work.  But I also think that she shifts into the shadows, into a sort of dark and tragic aura, which artists are wont to do.  The meta-narrative perhaps lightens the story a bit, allowing readers to stand back and see the construction of the story.  But I disagree with its definitive-one-and-only-death-ending.  For me, even death, can be ambiguous.
Anyway, what the hell am I doing with literary criticism, getting all philosophical and meta-physical.  Sheesh.  All I wanted to say was that, I’m borrowing from Atwood’s “Happy Endings,” which is not to say that our narrative skills are on par.  Of course not.  I write silly little blogs.  She’s published a bounty of books, been lionized in literary magazines, and won accolades up the wazoo.  Sheesh.  Anyway, I keep digressing, but here we go.  For a happy ending to my “Happy V-day,” try X.  If you want another ending, try Y.  But if you think this post is already getting too long, then just stop reading now. 

X.
Our main character-writer last year was leaving her dorm room to join Sal, who had invited her to movie-nite downstairs in the lounge with Sandra a dorm-mate and Jack, Sal's roommate.  Our protagonist sensed, even before climbing down the stairs, that Sal was interested in her.  She wasn't quite sure what to do with it.  It’s not every day that guys give her the time of day.  But she did like that he wasn’t very pushy.  He seemed to understand her reluctance.  He seemed to understand her. 
For a young guy, actually, Sal does appear present and mature.  He was aware that she wasn’t into him, that she basically ignored his rather longing looks.  He never ogled at her.  No.  That’s embarrassing.  He just really liked her and it showed.  He was aware of and honest about his feelings, but he fully understood that she need not share them.  So he backed off.  On the couch, as they watched the first movie, Shakespeare in Love, he leaned away from her, gave her space.  His mindful awareness isn’t based on some new age, hippy yoga meditation, though he is of the millennial generation.  Like a proper collegiate, his presence of mind stems from sports, or, more specifically, from basketball and rockclimbing.  Now, the goal driving him to graduate in three years with a psychology major is both smart and doable.  But he is under a tight and rigorous academic schedule, so that his main outlets for stress-relief needed to be activities that require little to no conscious thought.  Well, okay, so in rockclimbing you need to be very conscious when you are belaying.  No one wants a fallen climbing partner on their record.  But when he’s actually rockclimbing himself, or bouldering, and playing basketball, he can just trust his feet and hands, his whole body.  He can be in the zone. 
So, in moments like these, in the late afternoon, early evening, after classes and sports, he would feel his whole body relax and the tension release.  He’d be inside his body and nothing else would matter.  Not the formulas in his Stats course, nor the abstractions in his Cognitive Psych class. 
He wasn’t even really paying close attention to the movie.  He was enjoying the movie, liking the British accent.  I mean, who doesn’t like British accents?  But he was equally enjoying the supple softness of the couch, the cool comfort and soft dimness of the room.  Life’s palpability, its textures and colors seemed to weave themselves into his senses.  He was also aware, and liked that he was aware, of the scent of the woman next to him.  So he simply sat back.  He didn’t need to push or struggle.  Life is all.  Nothing else mattered.
He doesn’t exactly know why she didn’t return any show of interest, but that’s perfectly fine.  Her coldness towards him was refreshing, actually, because he would rather have her be clear about her feelings than toy around with his.  He’s met enough careless girls who merely exercised their feminine prowess under the guise of “being nice.”  This one, our main character-writer, seemed serious, and he thinks she could be a terrific girlfriend.  That is what, or who he is looking for.  He’s never had a lasting relationship.  He is only 18, after all.  He knew, though unconsciously, that his identity as a (straight) man entails being with a woman.  Call it nature, evolution, socialization or whatever.  His manhood is inextricably entwined with womanhood.  It is an interdependence, the depths of which he was lucky enough to understand without much confusion from popular culture.  He’s never bought in to the idea of “metro-sexuality” or even “asexuality.”  These were all extraneous stuff.  To him, it’s just a fact of life that he inherited a particular sexuality that is deeply connected to a woman’s femininity, and that happiness or the fullness of life and living for him as a man actually depends on sharing it with a woman.
“I thought this was supposed to be a romantic comedy, but it wasn’t really funny,” Jack, blurted out at the end of the movie.  Their silence seemed to signify that no one liked it.
“I liked that it’s not your typical romantic comedy,” Sandra responded.  She wanted to explain to him the value of the film.
“It was funny to me, in its own British way.  What is a ‘typical romantic comedy’ anyway?” asked Sal.
“There’s usually a happy ending, the male and female-lead characters come together in the end,” explained our main character. . .
I should really come up with a name for this protagonist.  I suppose there’s no reason to keep this Botany major anonymous.  Let’s call her. . . Luce.  Short for Lucinda.
Sal suggested ordering pizza, but Jack said he’s too hungry to wait.  He’s got a couple of microwavable pizzas in his mini-fridge, so he ran upstairs to get them.  Sal was struck by his eagerness to share.  Probably he wanted to impress Sandra.  Though he does seem always hungry.  Sandra and Luce went to the bathroom, and Sal made more popcorn.
“Do you think Sal likes you?” Sandra asked.
“I don’t know,” Luce lied.
“You know we were about to start watching when he said we should wait and get you first.  He seemed to know you’d be in your room.”
“Maybe he’s a stalker.”
“Oh c’mon.”
“What?  You don’t think a guy would ever want to stalk me?”
“Luce, you can be so crazy sometimes, you know that?”
Back at the lounge-kitchen, Jack was waiting for Sal to finish using the microwave.  He also brought down a bottle of Frank’s hot sauce, and a Nalgene bottle full of Jim Beam.  The girls returned and queued the next movie from the flashdrive.  The flat-screen in the lounge wasn’t new but hardly anyone used it.  Most watched movies on their own computers, in their own rooms.  They all agreed that they ought to have more get-togethers like this, maybe make movie-nite a regular thing.   Their Resident Assistant or RA (a third-year student receiving free housing for monitoring and providing resources to the new first years) isn’t the most helpful, nor the most reliable.  But they don’t really need his help, and all the residents seem to like his laxity.  They could have a party right now, and the RA would never know as he’s not even there most nights.  Jack wished then that Sandra was a little wilder.  He hoped the whiskey will help. 
The next movie they saw, Happy Accidents, combines sci-fi with romantic comedy.  It’s a low-budget film set in New York, so the sci-fi aspect of it doesn’t really stand out, but it does blend elements of the fantastic, which Luce sees as essential to any story.  Life, everyday life, can be so mundane that stories offer the strange to jar readers into re-seeing the everyday as new.  She wondered what extraordinary event she could include in her story.  She still has the weekend to think about it and come up with something.
At one point in the movie, towards the end, the mother of the main character says that maintaining a relationship is a constant battle.  It’s a striking metaphor which tells Luce she’s on the right track with her own story, as she left her characters in the middle of an argument.  The Nalgene bottle was being passed around, and, as she took a sip of whiskey, she realized that her protagonist, or protagonists (because the girl and the boy in her story, really, are equals—they’re having an argument, but neither one of them is an antagonist out to beat the other) will have to do something drastic.  Someone has to be brave, to take some major action, and bring the story to a boil. 
Lest I spoil the ending of “Happy Accidents,” we can fast-forward and say that after the movie, Sandra said she was tired and ready to go to sleep.  Jack offered to walk her up.  She laughed and said it’s only one flight of stairs, but okay.  Sal and Luce were left to tidy up.  They’ve only had maybe a couple of shots between them, so they weren’t drunk enough to just dump the bowl of popcorn in the sink.  Besides, Sal hates seeing ants in the kitchen.  Luce said she could stay and help, though he said it would only take a minute to wash a single bowl. 
Then there was silence.  He felt a little tired and so he assumed she was, too.  But the bit of whiskey lit her up, and she hadn’t done anything very physical all day.  She was still savoring the heat from the whiskey when they left the lounge. 
She lived on the second floor, and he on the third.  Her room was the first to the left of the stairwell, so he said good night and was about to head up to his floor, when she said:
“Sal, do you want to come to my room?”
He stopped and looked at her.  It was as if the words were still floating in the air, wispy and diaphanous.  He wasn't entirely certain she said them at all. 
“Yes,” he said.  “I do.”
In her room, she thought about how she’s not really sure what she’s doing.  But it became clear to her that forgetting about her ex can best be achieved by re-directing one’s thoughts (i.e. writing a different story—i.e. different from her past experience, the story that was playing in her head), or, as is the case now, focusing one’s attention on someone else.  Even if Sal doesn’t open up the universe of experiences for her, even if he’s just her “rebound guy,” that’s okay.  It was V-day, after all.  Why struggle and be alone when one doesn’t have to?
She turned her bedside lamp on and put a patterned piece of cloth (we’d call it a piece of capulana or a lenço here in Mozambique) over it to soften the light.  Then she turned off the ceiling light and asked him:
“Do you have a condom?”
A pause.  Again, even though he wasn’t inebriated, everything seemed slow and dreamy. 
“No,” he said.  “I don’t.”
A slight look of confusion.  She had assumed all guys kept one in their wallets and were always ready on the go.
“I don’t think I want to have sex.  I mean I do, but not tonight.  Call me old-fashioned, but we’ve never really talked or hung out even.  We don’t really know each other.”
She smiled.  He won’t be her “rebound guy” after all.
Now, do we still need to divulge what they ended up doing that night?  Can’t we just end it there, with the vision of her smiling at him and him with a tender look on his face?  I feel like I’m getting into fofoca (gossip) here, but I also don’t want to cop out this time.  So, let’s see.  She said:
“Well, it’s too late to be getting to know each other.  Do what you want, I’m going to bed.”
She started to take her clothes off.  He watched her slowly undress.  She watched him watching her undress.  She kept her underwear on and slipped into bed, under the covers.  It was a cold February night.
 He wondered if she thought he was a prude.  He liked her and cared what she thought of him, but he wasn’t about to have sex with a girl who could possibly be intoxicated.  She appeared sober, and he was turned on by her.  But what he really wanted to do was to just stay with her, to simply or literally just sleep with her.  So he took his shirt off, but kept his pants on, and slipped into bed as well.  They held each other for a long time until it got too warm, and then they started turning over and on their sides away from each other.  It was a small bed, and it became clear they weren’t sleeping any time soon.  When they came together again, she started to touch his shoulders, caress his chest.  He took her hands and nuzzled against her neck, taking her all in, breathing her all in.  He let go of her hands and held her face.  He was kissing her when she took her bra off.  He raised himself up a little and looked at her and touched and felt the shapeliness of her body.  He kissed her again and again and again again.  He kissed her deep, deep down, tasting the core of her femininity.  There was nothing else.  They held each other once more and were finally able to sleep. 
Y.  
Well, okay.  Never written anything like that before.  Maybe being a PCV for over two years has made me a bit of a perv.  Oh, well.  X isn’t really the most realistic ending, anyway.  I mean, not if we put in the nitty-gritty details. . .
It seems clear, in retrospect, that Sal and his beloved would never come together.  If you read last year’s “Happy V-day” part 1, you can see that she’s still very much hung-up on her ex-boyfriend.  She's also not daring enough.  She'd much rather reflect and write about her experience, than take a chance to experience something different.  And he was too young and inexperienced to see that she was preoccupied by someone else.  He was interested in her, but she wasn’t in him.  It was a simple as that.  There’s no use analyzing the sources of their preoccupations, but since we’re trying to build a story, a “How” and a “Why,” as Atwood suggests, then let’s add some key information.
Maybe it was precisely because she was preoccupied with her ex that he became attracted to her.  Her silence gave her the aura of mystery, and unlike most excited college girls, she appeared pensive and exotic.  Probably she knew he was attracted to her, but deliberately blocked or resisted the attraction because her ex was white.  She remembered her brother telling her this racial joke, which repulsed her:  “Hey, what do you call a white guy with an Asian fetish?”  What?  “A Caucasian.  Get it?  A Cock-asian. Hahahahaha!”  Her brother can be such an asshole sometimes.  She thought he was teasing her about her boyfriend.  He kept a database of racially charged jokes, but this one became a nasty incantation for her.  Now, whenever a white guy shows her any attention, she’s more than a little revolted. . .

Okay, so by details, I guess I meant ethnic differences.  I mean, they have to be different, don’t they?  They’re already of the same generation, the same age, grew up in the same state, pretty much had similar, suburban childhoods.  We can say that they're both from middle class families.  They both have cars, for example.  Old, used-cars, yes, but they're both mobile within and without the city.  They didn't need to call their parents for rides back home, or to pander to friends for rides to parties.  See, if we’re just going to assume that they’re both white (as X seems to do) then we’ve fallen into some ethno-centric whitehole where white is normal and the standard against which beauty, ethics and aesthetics are evaluated.  But what is “normal?”  Perhaps we can say something is “natural.”  And what can be more natural than (ethnic) differences, especially if our story is set in the United States of America?  We're not in Atwood’s Canada, for Christ’s sake.
So the two of them watched the two films that night, and even though they sat together in that comfy couch, even though they enjoyed the films together, the two of them were just not on the same wavelength.  The stars above them did not line up.  While her broken heart was on the mend, his was just about to break, and he wasn’t even aware of it at the time.  After movie nite, she never asked him to come to her room, and he slept soundly in his own bed. 
The tragic irony was that she entered his dreams, penetrated his psyche.  Like an angelic-incubus, she came to him as a vision in his blue-curtained bedroom, but it was her voice calling out his name that saturated him with pure sunlight the next morning.  Of course it wasn’t really or literally her that visited him in his dreams that night and several other nights thereafter.  His vision wasn’t Luce, but his own image of her.  A mirage from deep within, conjured up by his unconscious.  But though she was an illusion, the feeling she evoked was irrevocable.  Had he been less sensitive, less intuitive, he could’ve ignored it all, even forgotten that he dreamt of her in the first place.  But his dreams of her did not dissipate into nothingness that semester.  And so he suffered when he saw her go out with other guys.  Normally, he would just move on, focus on other girls who actually showed him some interest.  But because they lived in the same building, he wasn’t able to shake her off his mind as easily as he wanted to.  He would wonder why she never gave her a chance.  And when fofoca about her becoming a slut began to blossom, he couldn’t help but think how he wasn’t good enough for her.  Just one chance, he thought.  Just give him one chance.  Even if he were to be her “rebound dick,” he would have gladly offered himself up.  Though he was already possessed by her, or by his thoughts of her, he wanted so much to hold her, and for her to hold him.  He wanted mutual possession, and he thought that if only given a chance, he could change her heart.
But it wasn’t just her heart that he would’ve needed to change.  Not only was she dead-set on evading white guys, she also thought that she didn’t need any guy at all to be happy.  She’s in university to learn about the world, about the world of plants, to be more specific.  She would have fun once in a while, but she was determined in her pursuit of a university degree, which would be a major leap towards a lucrative career in pharmaceutical research or environmental protection.  She was studying in the hard sciences to learn some hard skills.  Happiness depended on the security of this future, on her independence, both financially and emotionally.  Nothing else really mattered.  At least, not at the time.
Eventually, though, after they all moved out of the dorms, Sal did forget her.  Or only had a vague recollection of her.  He would remember her name, but not her particular features.  She had black hair, of course he remembered that, but almost all Asians have black hair.  Once in a while he would think of her, of how deep a mark she left on him, despite the fact that nothing ever happened between them.  But then he would remind himself that she most certainly did not think of him at all.  That there had never been and never will be any reciprocity between them.  Once he remembers the futility of her memory, then he could move on again.  He would distrust women more, but he would keep on seeking a broad range of experiences, an expansion of the self, in books and travels, drugs and dancing, love and sex.  But perhaps the lesson he learned, the moral of his story, if you still need or want or believe in lessons and morals in endings of stories, is that the greater the differences between people (in culture and class, age and ethnicity, gender and sexuality), the more terrible the risks.  Though perhaps greater is the self’s expansion.  At the end of the day, however, none of these differences matter.  Not in the darkness.  Not in death. 
Lest I be accused of plagiarizing Atwood’s ending, let me use one of my favorite lines from Spanish fairy tales:  “Colorin, colorado, este cuento ya está acabado.” [Colorin, colorado, this story is now finished or finito.]”  The line seems to me both non-sensical and explicit in its conclusion.  But I’ll end by adding my revision of the line: “Colorin, colorado, otra historia siempre está arrancando.”  Another story is always beginning.

terça-feira, 21 de janeiro de 2014

Castigo, O Canalizador  
Or Punishment, the Plumber

So, while Moz19 PCVs are living it up in Maputo for Mid-Service Conference, yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting Castigo, o canalizador, which translates as "Punishment, the Plumber."  I suppose the name Castigo could also be interpreted as "I punish" or "The Punisher."  But no matter how you render the Portuguese, there's no way to sugar-coat it.

Canalizador sounds real fancy, though.
                                   
Here's what happened:  Monday morning I woke up to the noise of water pouring somewhere in my bathroom.  Sunday, before folks came over for Texas Hold'em, I had asked friends to bring me tools to fix the leak in my faucet.  No one, unfortunately, had a screwdriver, which was necessary to unlock and fix the leaky faucet.  And since everything is closed on Sunday, there's no other choice but to wait till the next day.  What was a leak then became Vic Falls the following day.  I called PC staff Osvaldo, thinking that no one at UCM would be able to help (most are still on vacation).  Osvaldo was right on the ball, calling me back within a few minutes, informing me that a UCM plumber was on his way and texting me the number of his UCM contact.

So, along came Punishment, the plumber.  Of course, it took him a good 3 hours to arrive at around 11am.  And when he did, he estou a pedir'ed for a knife, because he didn't have a screwdriver himself.  In fact, he brought no tools whatsoever.  He diagnosed the problem, and told me he'd be back with the necessary tools.  This was close to lunch time, so he wouldn't return till 3pm.

Meanwhile, I filled up two big vacias (buckets), collecting the water from my sink.  I could have filled four more, had I more vacias.

Castigo arrived in the afternoon and he proceeded to switch the leaky faucet with the good one.  I tried asking him the rationale behind this, because I would still have the leaky faucet on the other side of the sink.  With his husky voice, he explained it'll work on the other side, which was no explanation at all.

When Castigo finished switching the two faucets in the sink, no water came out.  Great, I thought.  At least there's no more leaking.  It turns out that FIPAG (Fundo de Investimento e Património do Abastecimento de Água / Investment Foundation and Patrimony for the Sourcing of Water) had shut off the water, which they regularly do at night from 9:30pm to 6am--not at 4pm.

So Castigo left around 4pm.  A couple of hours later, when the water came back on, I saw a puddle on my bathroom floor.  The leak in the faucet was replaced by a leaky tube under the sink.  When I touched it, the casing that held the tube to the wall broke, and the water burst.  Now I had Lake Niassa on my bathroom floor.  

I called Castigo, told him the situation, and asked that he come back.  He said he would come tomorrow at 8am.  Fine, I told him.  I'll just shut off the water valve from the outside of the house--something he had shown me on his second visit that day.  So I did.  Got back to the house.  Started mopping the water that now flowed to the hallway outside the bathroom, when I got a call from Castigo.  He'd keep breaking off, had a bad reception, but I got the message that he was in a chapa and was coming to my house.  After about an hour of mopping the floor, Punishment finally arrived, for the third time that day, to save the night.  

Well, sort of.  He again had to diagnose where the leak was, so I had to go out to switch the main water valve back on.  I had to turn the valve on and off three times, which re-produced Lake Niassa on my floor, before he determined that the tube cannot be salvaged and that he would need to plug that one pipe.  He plugged the pipe with some sort of clay padding, which needed to dry over-night.  I asked Castigo if the padding was sufficient and told him I would call him again tomorrow if it wasn't.  I was truly astonished that he came back that evening, and thanked him for doing so as he left my house.  

At the end of the day, as I took my cold bucket bath, I just wondered, how are the showers in Pensão Martins where the 19ers are staying for their Conference in Maputo?  What orgiastic all-nighters could they be ensconced in right now?  And how the hell did I piss off the gods that they'd send me Punishment three times in one day?




segunda-feira, 13 de janeiro de 2014

M.I.A. for MSC

Alright, so I’m not going to Mid-Service Conference (MSC) in Maputo.  I see why not: I’ve already done all the medical, the dental, the labwork, the stool samples, and so on and so forth the week before I left for my 30-day leave in the states.  Now, I’ve never had any “mid-service” training, because we had to leave the country (Cape Verde) during the middle of our service to re-start again for “Pre-Service Training.”  I’ve ranted about this before; I won’t do it again.  But I would guess that MSC sessions deal with reflections on our first year of service, possible challenges in our second year, things to be done differently.  I certainly don’t want nor need to re-do any of the medical stuff, and I wouldn’t want to sit through any of the sessions either, but I would so totally do it all if I could meet up with all the Moz19ers again.

            Okay, so this isn’t exactly my second year of service.  Or is it?  I mean, this is my 2nd year in Mozambique, though it is my 3rd year with Peace Corps.  But really it’s my 1st year in a new site, in the city of Chimoio.  If that makes any sense.

            It is probably better to just stay at site.  Since I’m the only CV transfer left, perhaps it’s better to keep Moz19 MSC, purely Moz19.  No need to pollute the crowd with Cape Verdean blah blah blah.  Plus, there are a bunch of good reasons to stay at site.  One, I actually like it here.   I don’t have this aching need to fugir (flee) like I did back in Cuamba.  And I still need to figure out how the system works at UCM where I’ll be working.  I’m also still just getting settled in a new house.  I find myself actually nesting, putting a bit more effort into making the place feel like home. 

            Still, I would really, really like to see all the Moz19ers again. 

            Maybe for COS in September 2014.  But here again, PC might say I’ve COSed (“Close of Service”) already.  Twice!  I will ask and pedir (beg) Peace Corps to let me participate in Moz19 COS, but it’s quite likely that I’ll never see the Moz19 group whole again. 


            So come visit me in Chimoio!  For those visiting from the south and central, I may request that you help cover the cost of utilities.  Does 50mts a night sound reasonable?  For those coming from the north, I think you deserve a special discount (i.e. stay for free).  You just need to get here first, Norte Forte.

domingo, 5 de janeiro de 2014

Back in Mozambique

And glad to be back.  Last month I celebrated Christmas with folks in the states.  My parents were happy to see me, but not so happy that I wasn’t staying.  It’s hard to convince them that the distance between us is good for me, for all of us, and that I’m actually happier living and working abroad.  Every family is dysfunctional to some degree, I think, and mine is no exception.  Having been gone for over two years, and only staying temporarily for the holidays, definitely helped during our not so great holiday moments.  My mom is adorable and, to a certain extent, understanding, so it was relatively easy talking to her about my not staying.  My dad, not so adorable, and not so understanding, so it wasn’t as easy.  But hey, he’s my dad.  What can I say.  It is what it is.

I’ve been back for a week now.  Just moved to the city of Chimoio.  For New Year’s Eve, I hung out with Moz21ers Emma, Carly, Fei, Heather, Thelma, Aleesa, Brian, and Steven.  Other Moz19ers present were Haleigh and Taylor J.  Now, I have to say, our New Year's Eve wasn’t as emotional as it was last year.  Last year, the feeling of loss and being lost was almost overwhelming.  This year, I don’t know.  Don’t get me wrong, I had a good time with the PCVs here.  It just wasn’t so emotionally heavy, which is a good thing, I think.  It’s not that, after three New Year’s Eves outside of the U.S., I’ve become uncaring or disinterested.  I think I just didn’t have a lot of expectations this time or I wasn’t longing for something that wasn’t there.  Or maybe I was just out of it, recovering from jet-lag, or simply preoccupied with settling in to a new city and a new house.  Either way, even though New Year’s 2013 wasn’t by magnificent Lake Niassa (2012), or at the base of Fogo Volcano in Cape Verde (2011), it was still all good.  Or good enough for me, at least. 

About the house, by the way, it’s pretty damn grand.  Thanks to Universidade Católica de Mozambique em Chimoio, and Peace Corps staff Custodio, Ofelio and Osvaldo.  Special thanks also to RPCVs João and Don Juan.  João, rapaz de Calheta—I’ll see what I can do with that guitar (which I thought was Dan’s from Cabo Verde?), and you know I’m not much of a coffee drinker, but will probably become one now with your coffeemaker.  And Don, man, the trunk you left me is a lifesaver.  From bed sheets to kitchen utensils, clothespins to hangers, a bundle of rope to a bag full of preservativos.  Seriously, I’ll try to put it all to good use ;-)   

Again, I’m still settling in, so I haven’t taken pics, but will do so as soon as my things are in order.  I’m still waiting on PC to send me a box of my stuff from Nampula, and there are a few things in the house that need fixing.  My plan, once I get settled, is to invite my landlady and landlord, who live in a smaller house behind mine, for lunch or brunch (à la Colin).  But I’ve still got quite a bit to do before then, like fixing the gas stove, getting the gas tank filled, getting my mosquito nets up, getting my bedroom door fixed.
And we’re already supposed to start at UCM this coming Monday.

So, onwards and upwards and Feliz 2014!

segunda-feira, 23 de dezembro de 2013

To Lichinga, Namaacha, and Maputo


After almost two-and-a-half years of living and working (i.e., volunteering) in Africa, I’m back in the states.  I’ve actually been back in California for almost a month now.  And still, I’m recovering from jetlag.  I no longer wake up in the middle of the night, though, wondering where I am, where the crowing roosters have gone, or the humming of electric fans, or the loud hotel air-conditioner.   
It’s interesting to re-experience a bit of (reverse) culture shock.  It’s almost like the first time I came to the U.S. in November, 1990.  The cold and the quiet, the speedy freeways and sterile suburbs.  I’m being a critical grinch, I know.  I have enjoyed and am still enjoying my visit.  I finally met my 2-year old niece.  Saw and hung out with a few friends.  Spent a great deal of time with family.  That’s mainly what I wanted to do.  To re-connect.  I was just commenting on how “home” doesn’t feel like home.  I love my friends and family, but, unlike many “RPCVs,” that’s not enough to keep me here.  If I’m going to be honest with myself.    
Now, this blog is about Mozambique and Cape Verde, and other experiences of living and working outside of the states.  It’s about an expat’s life.  It’s also mainly a retrospective, a digital scrapbook of sorts.  And since I’m still in the thick of things here, I’ll just write about last month’s events, going to Lichinga, Namaacha, and Maputo.
The night before I left I had my last dinner with fellow expats.  It was a wonderful despedida with Kenny, Carla, their kids Eddie, Deacon, and Cameron, as well as other Cuambanos, Millie, Rich and Zacharia.  Alexis from Metarica and Jamie B. from Mecanhelas also visited, making the evening delightfully different from our director’s despedida, waving to us as he drove past, leaving us in the wake of dust and exhaust fumes from his pick-up truck.
I left Cuamba (for good, as my sitemates would say) on November 13.  Lucky Wednesday the 13th, I thought, when our chapa broke down—the front axle twisted beyond repair—in the middle of nowhere. As we waited watching the driver try to “fix” the vehicle, I recalled horror stories in which volunteers actually had to sleep in a ditch by the road, stranded overnight.  A few moments later, the chapa driver got a boleia from a car passing by, and he took off to Mandimba to fetch another chapa.  I asked another passenger, a friendly Nigerian, if we all trust the guy to just fugir with our money, with all the chapa fare.  And he said, Well, we have his chapa here, so he has to come back.    
As it turned out, we only had to wait for about two hours.  The driver returned, and we all packed into a smaller chapa.  I lost my front seat, but was glad to be on our way.  We reached Lichinga, smeared with dust and sweat, by 3pm. 
In Lichinga I got to spend some time with Jade, Matt J., Victor, and Grisha, fellow Niassomes whom I scarcely see enough of.  Jade was a terrific host, welcoming me to her house and introducing me to her Mozambican friends.  Though I didn’t get to meet her special friend, I did finally meet Matope and Maningue, who made me seriously consider getting a cat next year in Chimoio.  I would post the Lichinga photos here, but for some reason blogspot is not letting me insert any pics.  I also lost a bunch of pics from my crappy camera, so I’m asking Lichingles to send me photos.  Please.
It was also great meeting Pele, the Swedish forester.  Hopefully he’ll still be in Lichinga the next time I’m up there.  And Grisha, prepare yourself for a re-match.  Even if it is your version of chess, a shot of whiskey per piece taken, I’ll be ready.  Game on, my Russian rival.
Matt J. and I left Lichingles for Maputo on the 16th of November.  We met up with Bro-Eric from Zambezia, and then later (much later, due to LAM) with Helen from Tete.  By the way, Helen, I’m drinking Erdinger as I write.  Finally.
Believe it or not, I haven’t been drinking here as much as when I was in Moz.  Or rather, I should say, as much as when I was in Cuamba.  I’m sure there are a number of factors for this ebb and flow of alcoholism.  The weather, for instance: winter here makes me drink less beer, tropical summer there makes me drink more.  I would drink more red wine here, but alas, two-buck-chucks are no more.  See, the volunteer stipend is another factor.  And then there are my puritan parents and older friends with families.  Though, Colin, I did get to try a bottle of that Argentinian Malbec wine, which is now my new favorite.  My folks wouldn’t drink, so I did it all for them.  Still, I’m drinking less, believe it or not. 
While Eric W. and Matt J. stayed in the capital for Science Fair commitments, Helen and I left Maputo for Namaacha to participate in Moz21’s Pre-Service Training.  The short and easy chapa ride was lovely.  The cool climate, and Namaacha greenery were lovely.  It was all so very different from the north.  The then-trainee, now new PCVs of Moz21 were also very different, and also very lovely.  And very young overall.  Or they’re not young, I’m just an old geezer.  It’s really just a matter of perspective.    
I observed the new PCVs giving lessons during model school.  They were all very nice and appreciated my comments.  They know their real teacher-training will happen at their schools, in their classrooms.  I also met the two PCVs replacing me and Zackaria at the IFP in Cuamba.  Sam and Caitlin, I look forward to seeing your badasses in the north next year. 
Namaacha made me realize that I finally left my site.  It was a feeling of being out of place, and cut off from the Cuamba boys I had come to depend on.  Despite the fun of meeting and hanging out with new PCVs, thank goodness for Eric W., Helen, and Matt J., whose peer support helped move me through a vulnerable time.  Though Matt, you know you and I will be duking it out again in chess.  No mercy, macdaddy.
We left Namaacha Saturday, November 23rd, and back in Maputo we hit Café do Sol once again for milkshakes and sweet cakes.  Actually, I think I had a burrito with my milkshake, which wasn’t the best combo, but still delicious.  We had dinner at a great Thai restaurant, and it would’ve been a perfectly chill evening if I didn’t lose my phone.  Mac was kind enough to accompany me back to the restaurant that night to see if we could still get the phone.
I guess I was off the grid for a couple of days, more than I usually am.  All the stores were closed the following Sunday, and then after that I had to juggle COS affairs, medical, dental appointments, etc. with getting a new phone.  I did get a new phone and my old number, as some of you know if you received my random Turkey Day text message.
That week in Maputo was busy with a lot of walking and going to appointments and checking out new restaurants.  Let me just applaud former Moz CD Carl for hosting a dinner for us.  Even though I wasn’t COSing, I still got invited.  Another highlight was meeting Jonathan’s lovely sister, Kelsey.  We had an awesome lunch at the seafood market, thanks to Yuri, man of Maputo. 
Maputo is a great city, and I’m glad I got to know it better with some superb people.  I’d like to check out the Jazz club and the Karaoke bar that Bro-Eric and Macdaddy Matt were raving about.  I get back to Maputo on the 29th.  That’s 23 hours of fly time, and then about 12 hours of layovers through 5 airports—San Jose to LAX, then to Heathrow, then Joburg, then finally Maputo.  Sheesh.  It was one hell of a trip getting here, now let’s see if I can make it back. 

But before all that, happy holidays, everyone, and feliz ano novo.

quinta-feira, 7 de novembro de 2013

Addendum to ´letter to my replacement´ post last month

I discovered during our ´concelho de notas´ that our English Department Coordinator, Rafael, will be moving to Lichinga next year, and so the IFP in Cuamba will only have at most three English Teachers, at least in the beginning of the schoolyear.  It´s possible that the IFP will hire a new Mozambican English teacher during the first semester, but I think you may have more classes to teach in 2014.

Moreover, there´s also been some talk that all IFPs will switch to a two year program next year (we´re currently on a one-year program).  This could mean that all turmas, not just the one English turma, will be required to take English classes.  That´s as many as 9 turmas among three English teachers.  The six subjects of English I mentioned in my original letter would probably be collapsed into two courses of Integrated English Language Learning.  So there could be a total of 18 English classes next year.

You probably have plenty of questions.  Again, I´d be happy to clarify any thing from this letter or respond to any questions you may have.